I
thought back to the camping trips in the desert during the years my father
worked for Aramco. On long weekends and Eid holidays, we would head out in our
old Landrover to far-flung places like Scribner's Canyon, Mammoth Cave and the
Umm al-Hadid meteorite field. Usually there would be two or three families,
traveling in “caravans.” We would occasionally meet up with shepherds and
Bedouin, and once in a while we would be invited to some desert family's bait
al-shaar, or “house of hair,” the black, woven goat-hair tent that served
as their home during nomadic migrations.
Invited
into the majlis, or sitting room, of the tent, we would settle down on
Oriental carpets, bolsters and cushions, and would drink cardamom-scented
Arabian coffee and sweet tea prepared over the campfire, and eat dates or other
fruit. Usually we would not see the women; we could hear them giggling behind a
tent divider. But the desert men would not mind a mixed crowd of Americans in
their sitting room. Their kids, both boys and girls, were very curious about
us, and would either peek at us from behind the tent wall, or would assist
their fathers in serving us fruit and tea. We would sometimes be honored with a
meal of sheep or goat, served on a huge platter amid a mountain of seasoned
rice. We would sit with our hosts around the platter on the carpet and dig in with
our right hands – the hand reserved for eating. The idea was to snare a piece
of lamb and work it into a little ball of rice, then pop it into your mouth,
all using only your right hand. The host would normally tear out chunks of the
tenderest meat for his guests, and set it in the rice before them. A very
social form of eating, if a bit messy. (The Bedouins had discovered that
washing your hands with a little Tide detergent after the meal was the best way
of removing lamb fat. If water was in short supply, there was always sand.)
I
tried not to think about one of our family caravans into the remote Rub'
al-Khali. It was the time I first learned about the Sulayb. These were not
Bedouins, or even Arabs. They were gypsy-like wanderers of unknown origin who
worked as trackers, did repair work and blacksmithing, and kept their distance
from the true Bedouins. The Sulayb – whose name has been interpreted as a
diminutive of salib, Arabic for “cross” – were thought by some scholars
to be the remnants of ancient Christian Crusader forces that had become lost or
stranded in the desert. Some Sulayb had fair hair and blue eyes. They were also
known as the very best desert trackers. But because of their murky origins,
because they did manual labor – which was looked down upon by true Bedouins – and
because in the old days they wore animal skins and rode donkeys instead of nobler
horses or camels, the Sulayb had the misfortune to be considered the lowest
social class in Arabia – virtual untouchables.
I
was about fifteen at the time. Our families were still asleep in their tents,
when I went for a dawn trek in the dunes. I was looking for a secluded spot to
pee. Behind me the sky was almost inky black, but in front a pinkish splash tinged
the horizon, and it was growing steadily. I soon found a gully where I quickly
did my business. On my way back to the camp, I climbed a sand hill and off to the
right I saw a jerboa scurry into its hole. I loved being alone, in a purely
natural environment like this. I breathed deeply. The universe seemed to be
this amazing song, and I sang harmony with it. But the song was suddenly cut
short, as someone grabbed my shoulders and spun me around.
I
gasped, almost screamed. I was staring into the face of a bearded man, not much
taller than me but wiry and extremely powerful. He wore a dingy white robe and
a red-and-white checked shemagh or headcloth
wrapped around his skull, like a sloppy turban.
“What
do you want?” I said, in English, terrified but trying not to show it.
He
muttered something in Arabic, but I couldn’t understand it.
He
took off his shemagh, rolled it into
a long strip and without warning bound my mouth with it. I began screaming, but
the sound did not carry far under the cloth, which reeked of wood smoke and old
sweat. He smacked my face, shouting “Uskuti!”
-- “Shut up!” He reached around me, grabbed my buttocks and hoisted me up, facedown,
onto his right shoulder. He then set off across the dunes.
I
knew what was about to happen. I felt helpless, outraged and ashamed. I
struggled, but the man smacked me repeatedly to keep me still. Before long, we
reached a small canvas tent, alone in a hollow amid the dunes. The tent was
empty, apart from a rug and pillow. He threw me inside and followed me in. He
made gestures to me, indicating clearly that I should take off my clothes. He knelt
down beside me and shook a bony fist. He didn’t seem to have any weapons. But I
knew he could overpower me. I began slowly to undress. I pulled my Gap sweatshirt
over my head and set it beside me. I was not wearing a bra. The early morning
air was still cool, and I shivered as I wrapped my arms around my bare breasts.
He leered at my body, and began to hoist his filthy robe. He nodded toward his obscene
erection, indicating I should touch him. The stench of his unwashed skin
nauseated me.
Suddenly,
I sensed a shadow behind the man. It moved like another person. Then a blur
surrounded the man and he fell backwards and seemed to be dragged out of the
tent. He began howling, then screaming. The wind roared. Then he was silent.
Puzzled,
I grabbed my sweatshirt and slipped it over my head.
Another
man poked his head into the tent. He was younger, better looking, and much
cleaner than my kidnapper. He wore a dark brown robe and his head was bare.
“Are
you okay?” he asked in Arabic. I knew enough of the language to respond.
“Yes,
I am fine,” I said. Relief washed over me.
“He
was from the Sulayb. Usually they do not do that. Do you know how to get back
to your family?”
I
shook my head. “No.”
He
beckoned to me, but he would not enter the tent. “Come with me, I will show
you.”
My
attacker had disappeared. My rescuer walked me back over the dunes to my camp. As
we walked, he explained to me about the Sulayb, how they were outcasts of
unknown origin. He told me had never heard of a Sulubi trying to attack a
woman.
“What
happened to that man?” I asked him. “Where did he go?”
The young
man smiled. “He is far from here,” was all he would say.
When they
reached the campsite, everyone was still asleep. As I stood beside my tent, I
whispered “Shukran” – “Thank you” – and
the young man smiled. I glanced away for a moment, and in that second he
vanished.
In the
cave, as I stared at Mubarak Awda posing like the crucified Christ, I
remembered the horrifying abduction in the desert, I remembered so clearly the
young man who had saved me. He was now standing before me, unchanged.
Mubarak
lowered his arms and looked at me. Noting the change in my expression, he
smiled broadly.
“Yes, Dr.
Goddard, I am the one,” he said.
“But how –
”
He gestured
for silence.
“We will
speak of it later,” he said.
a great story! :)
ReplyDelete